Saturday, May 13, 2006

Paradise of lovely fragances

Testing testing and testing that is how I spend the days right now. It's like paradise smelling al these lovely fragrances. I received some materials from IFF and have to get to know all these new materials. It's like you meet a new person, you don't know the person accept you first impression, but to really know a person you have to spent time with him and know how that person will react in different circumstances. The same thing with the perfume materials. You have to spent time with them, wearing it on your skin, smell it on a smelling blotter, dilute it and so on. But then you only know the material on his own, most important is how it will react with other materials. One of the materials I"ve got from IFF is Cashmeran it has peppery soft musky notes, I tried it with Clove oil and am surprised how it enhanced the spicy smell of the Clove. I tried it in my Magnolia perfume as well and it's lovely, it doesn't ad the stayingpower that I was looking for but it's real nice with this perfume, I think I will keep it in it. I'm also working on a Fougere base, Fougere is a type of perfume that has lavender, patchouli, oak moss and the fragrance of hay from coumarine or Tonka bean. In French Fougere means vern. In 1882 Houbigant launched Fougere Royal made by the perfumer Paul Parquet . The Fougeres are related to that perfume. Fougere based perfumes are mostly men perfumes. Here is a simple basic Fougere base:

Lavender 14
Bergamot 8
Coumarin 12
Rose 5
Jasmin 4
Patchouli 2
Vetiver 10
Geranium 2
Iso-Amyl Salicylate 3

If you don't have Coumarin you could use Tonka bean oil that contain a lot of Coumarin.
I tried it with Basil oil what makes the topnotes real fresh, Clary sage is used also a lot, but some how I don't like that scent. Maybe I need to learn how to use that oil. I tried Vertofix in it and that is real nice, Vertofix has a woody note like vetiver and a leathery scent. I think a fruity or green note will be nice in it too, a note of green apple perhaps.


Heather said...


I have a 'Fougere' for men - of all my fragrances it was Andy Tauers favourite - which has me a bit worried because in all honesty I think its awful.

Its green and dull as dishwater even though when I made it I did so following fougere type rules. I actually think Lavender much as I love it - doesn't really work in perfume (well, maybe my perfumes!!)


Jenny said...

Hi Heather,
I think lavender is nice in a men perfume. And the fougeres I'm working on are really nice. Maybe you added to much lavender. I like it to work as a complentary note and make the woody notes more dominant.