
Wednesday, February 14, 2007
Saturday, February 10, 2007
Pink lotus




Sunday, February 04, 2007
Mmmm

Today I spent my day on sniffing all kinds of wonderful perfumes. Chaya who comment here often was so kind to sent me some real wonderful samples of perfume. I will review some of them later. I also sniffed the perfumes we swap on my Perfumemaking group at Yahoo. We let other members smell our own creations to get feedback about them, this is real fun to do, but also difficult, the feedback is supposed to be a helpful feedback not only a description of the perfume. It would be funny to see how many different feedbacks we will receive, because a personal preference has also much to do with it.
You can smell if a perfume is well constructed but taste is something else, I think that what we like to smell could have much to do with our scent memory and our character. I also think that it's important to know why we like to wear perfume, some of us would like to be noticed others would like to wear a more subtle perfume. I wear perfumes for different reasons but the most important reason is that it has to make me feel good.
Sunday, January 28, 2007
Your chair?

This image does me remind me of something a girl once told me. When she was a child she had an odd thing, when someone she didn't know visited her parents and sat on a chair, she always sniffed that same chair after the visitor was gone. Hmm would be strange if adults did the same thing. Kids are much closer to smell, they smell without being prejudged, they just analyze odors not dividing them in bad or good smells.
Sunday, January 21, 2007
The Axe effect

I found an interesting article about how hetero and homo sexuals react on the odor of a male or female. Researchers obtained the body odors of male and female heterosexual and homosexual "odor donors" who avoid all fragrances, soaps, and shampoos for 9 days. During this time they could not shave their armpits or eat spicy food. Following this preparation they wore cotton gauze pads under their arms for three days. These pads were later cut up and places in plastic squeeze bottles for use in the study. These pads were smelled by a group who didn't know from which group it came from. The result was as follow:

Heterosexual males found the odors of heterosexual females to be the least unpleasant, and the odors of gay males to be the most unpleasant.
Gay males found the odors of heterosexual females to be least unpleasant, but the odors of gay males followed close behind.
The odors of lesbians and heterosexual males were judged most unpleasant (but the overall differences were smaller for gay males than for other "odor evaluators").
Heterosexual females found the odors of gay males and lesbians to be more unpleasant than the odors of other heterosexual females and heterosexual males.
Lesbians preferred the odors of heterosexual females and especially disliked the odors of gay males.
http://mentalhealth.about.com/od/gender/a/bosexpreference.htm

Preti and team also measured the women's' levels of luteinising hormone, which plays varied roles in triggering ovulation and in sex drive. Pulses of this hormone released from the brain increase in size and frequency as women approach ovulation. In the experiment, the researchers found when women smelt the sweat extract it induced a surge of the hormone.
http://www.abc.net.au/science/news/stories/s888984.htm
Interesting to make a relaxing perfume for women from the sweat of men. Well in the essential oil of sandalwood there is something similar as the pheromone called androstenone what also is found in the sweat of men. But would it calm me down? I'm not sure when looking at the photo of vin Diesel, somehow it didn't make me feel calm........
Sunday, January 14, 2007
Vega

The first acquaintance with this perfume made me think of Chanel no5, but that's because it's an aldehydic perfume, it's not the same but the topnote has some resemblance, Vega has a more powdery scent and Chanel no5 is more flowery. My impression of this perfume is chique it's a chique perfume. The scent of aldehyde is clearly present with an almost metal scent and believe it or not I smell a scent of blood. To soften the aldehydes there is a lot of ylang ylang used and what makes this fragrance so great is the use of iris, a soft powdery scent that soften this perfume on a remarkable way. To warm this all up there is some sandal and vanilla added.
I wore Vega a couple of times now and received a lot of compliments, when you wear this perfume you will not stay unnoticed. Vega is not a romantic perfume it's a chique perfume, it's a beauty.
Thursday, January 11, 2007
I'm so lucky

You all know now that I work with natural oils and handmade aroma chemicals. For everyone that thinks aroma chemicals do smell "chemical" and less pleasant as naturals l wish you had the change to smell them. I think it's a psychological thing to think they smell "bad", it has to do with your expectations.
For example a rose does have many aromatic molecules it's not one molecule that makes the rose smell like rose, there are hundreds. Some important ones are: Phenylethyl alcohol, Geraniol, Citronellol, Nerol, Linalool and many many more. You think these molecules stink or smell bad when they are smelled on their own? You think the single chemicals Geraniol and linalool smell "chemical"? No they smell wonderful.
On my perfumemaking group we have some members that are new to perfumery and think that working with chemicals is the same as working with fragrance oils. Fragrance oils are a complete different thing, I never work with that. A fragrance oil is a blend of different aroma chemicals mostly based on oil. These fragrance oils can contain materials that are not safe to use on your skin. I do use bases sometimes but these are not complete perfumes, I use for example an oakmoss base(a base is a composed blend) because real oakmoss is only allowed to use in real small amounts because it can irritate your skin(never noticed that by myself by the way) this base is made of safe materials. So I use bases as notes like an oakmoss note for my perfumes, not as a complete composed perfume base.
Well back to smell my Ambrettolide and Muscenone.....
Sunday, January 07, 2007
Inhaling the scent of summer

Sitting behind my PC I thought about what to write today, when reading Andy's blog, I thought about how lucky I am that even when it's winter I still have the scent of summer around me, even though they are bottled. When opening one of these bottles I can smell summer again.
Yesterday was a grey and rainy day, well I could say the same thing about today, and I was longing for the spring. The holidays are over and now we have to wait for the spring to come, promising a summer with an air filled with lovely scents. I burned my aroma burner with a few drops essential oils of mandarin and jasmine and inhaled the scent of summer.
Today I'm studying some of my essential oils, on one wrist I'm wearing a dilution of Pink lotus absolute and on the other I'm wearing a dilution of Tuberose absolute. I'm still working on a perfume based on Tuberose, it's one of my favorite flowers. I do like Pink lotus but it's not as flowery as I thought it would be, it's more earthy, I will talk about that later.
Wednesday, January 03, 2007
Perfumery art or craft?

For example I would like to paint (but I'm really not good at it, I whish) the fact that I paint doesn't make me an artist does it? I could call myself a painter or artist when I believe in myself and think I'm good at it.
I could make a "perfume" by taking sandal oil and mix it with alcohol put it in a bottle and name it "Sandal dream" and think I made a perfume a work of art I could even consider my self as an artist, a perfumer, but am I?
I think someone else decides if you are an artist or not, I don't think you can say something like that about yourself, before someone else call you an artist.
Art is about evoking emotions you have to reach people with your creations, tell them a story with your creations, they need to be touched by it. It's about beauty(although not always), about emotion, feelings, imagination, harmony, expression and sensibility. When you've accomplished that you can call yourself a real artist and your work a piece of art.
The beautiful painting is from: http://boundlessgallery.com/
Monday, January 01, 2007
Happy New Year
Saturday, December 30, 2006
Perfumer Ineke

Notes: bergamot, raspberry, lilac


After my own heart is a fresh tender perfume it has a tiny subtle sweet note but over all it's light and playful. The dominant note is lilac but it has also a fresh citrus note and a green note is also present. The color of this juice is reflecting the fragrance very well it's soft fresh with a transparent feeling.
Balmy days & sundays


Balmy days & sundays is more rounder than After my own heart, it's heavier because of the honeysuckle. But still transparent with a green freesia note. It's a quiet perfume like a whisper, a bit too timide for me.
Chemical bonding


This perfume has citrus but it's fruitier it's not sparkling citrus like in a cologne this citrus is combined with heavier notes, well like Ineke describes the notes herself she say it's a smooth citrus cocktail and that's true. You can smell some sweet fruity notes through it, maybe that's the blackberry I'm smelling? I like this one the most of all four because in this perfume the base is more prominent than in the other three. The base is dry ambery maybe some Ambrox and Cashmeran is used I don't know.
Derring-do


This is the masculine perfume from Ineke it's a fougere accord(lavender, patchouli, oakmoss, coumarine) mixed with citrus and magnolia. I love the scent of magnolia and was surprised to find it in a men's fragrance, it works perfectly well in this perfume. It has rain notes for sure like the air can be filled after rain with a scent of waxy green wet leaves. I say waxy because it doesn't smell crispy green but rainy green waxy with a melon note as well. The base is nice woody musky.
Ineke's website is beautiful please have a look:
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
Perfume the movie


The story is about Jean-Baptiste Grenouille who was born in the 18th Century in Paris and had an incomparable sense of smell. He had a live without love and was only interested in scents and smell, not only scents that considered to be "nice" smells but also "bad" smells. The strange thing was that he didn't own a body odor of his own and noticed that because his body didn't had a smell he was a nobody to everyone. It was as if everyone was looking right through him and didn't notice him at all. As he grew up he "fell in love" with the smell of a young woman, a virgin. He wasn't fallen in love with her person but only by her scent, her sent gave him tears in his eyes and he was deeply touched by it. He wanted to know how he could conserve her scent, and wanted to create a scent for his own so he wouldn't be no longer a nobody to everyone.
When he met the perfumer Giuseppe Baldini he proved that he could do miracles with scents and created a perfume without ever learned how to make it. The perfumer was so impressed and knew that he could use Jean-Baptiste Grenouille to make him new wonderful perfumes a thing he wasn't capable of anymore.
The perfumer learned him how to conserve scent and Jean-Baptiste finally knew how to use it for conserving the scent of the young woman. He had to kill her, shaved her had and spread her in a layer of animal fat what absorbed her scent. He distilled the fat and finally had a view drops of her scent. He killed 12 virgins to complete his divine perfume....
It must have been a difficult job to make a movie about smell without actual smelling it but the book didn't have smell as well. I think they did a wonderful job filming this novel. Some parts of the novel are different but the movie tells the whole story complete and changed only small bits, I think because it was necessary for the movie.
Some parts of the movie could be "smelled" I think that's something incredibly difficult for a movie. I especially liked the end of the movie when he's about to be executed, when he's got disgusted by humans, he thinks about the women he killed and realized there is also something else to enjoy the scent of a woman... by making love to her, he never thought about that before.
Sunday, December 24, 2006
Merry Christmas
Friday, December 22, 2006
Sunday, December 17, 2006
Fig

I like to eat figs they are honeysweet and I heard that figs are real healthy. I like the smell of fig leaves as well, my brother has a fig tree in his garden and the smell of the leaves are wonderful. So I tried to make a fig scent not the scent of the fresh figs but the dried figs and a fig leaves scent.
This is what I made for the dried fig scent so far, I used benzyl alcohol(light floral), linalool(floral woody, rosewood like), amyl cinnamic aldehyde(waxy jasmine), benzaldehyde(almond like), coumarine(tonka like), benzyl benzoate(balsamic), exaltolide(musky), maltol(sugary), ethyl phenyl acetate(honey like), ylang ylang oil(exotic), vanillin and indole(animalic).
The smell of it does smell like dried fig indeed but it needs more of a dark sweet scent so I think for the next batch I will use also some labdanum absolute, beeswax absolute for the honey note and some Geranyl acetate to sweeten it and maybe some amyl salicylate as well for a sweet herbal orchid like note.
I also tried to make a fig leaf scent and used stemone(fresh green), galbanum oil( green), linalool, benzyl acetate(fresh jasmine fruity), beta ionone(woody violet), leaf alcohol(smells like fresh cut grass), cis 3 hexenyl acetate(green leaf), styrallyl acetate(green gardenia rhubarb), lindenblossom base, vertelione(violet leaf like), Phenylethyl dimethyl acetate(pungent green), black pepper oil and cyclogalbanate(green galbanum pineapple).
It's a nice green leaf scent but I want to make it more green maybe a bit deeper green, so the experiments will go on.
Sunday, December 10, 2006
What is it......

I liked to read books about essential oils and liked gardening, so I also started to read books about all kinds of plants and flowers. I also liked to read about healing herbs, but one time my brother gave me a book from Jean M Auel it was her first book "The clan of the cave bear". I was hooked, what a beautiful book, I never read something like that before.

She raised up between them but they don't accept her so easy, she is different. The woman that takes care of her is a medicine woman and learned her all the secrets of healing herbs. This way the little girl Ayla gets respect from the clan and she can stay. Well the story goes on but it's too long to tell it all. Jean M Auel wrote 5 novels about Ayla.
The parts in the book about healing herbs were very interesting to me, and I started to plant healing herbs in my garden and made creams for my face with them. Later on I liked to make a garden that was fragrant so when you walked trough it you could smell all kinds of different flowers and plants. I planted the fragrant flowers and plants in a way that you always could smell something also in the evening and night. It was like walking through a perfume and smell all the details of it. I think there it started, I wanted to make a perfume.....
Here you can read more about the books from Jean M Auel and read a piece of the first chapter of her first book The clan of the cave bear:
http://www.amazon.ca/Clan-Cave-Bear-Jean-Auel/dp/product-description/0553250426
Here a site about the herbs Ayla used:
http://ecfans.com/aylasherbs/AHerbs_ac.htm
Tuesday, December 05, 2006
Jardins de Bagatelle

A perfume what smells like you walk in a garden, a garden with all kinds of fragrant white flowers. The opening is fresh, flowery with some sharp green notes. It's filled with juicy Neroli tempered with Mimosa. It's not a fruity perfume but more a perfume made of a bouquet of white flowers with some citrus and woody notes with an animalic note in the background.
The heart of this perfume is full of white fragrant flowers, but the scent of the flower I can detect most is Gardenia soon assistant by the sensual notes of Tuberose and Jasmine. A scent often used together with Tuberose is narcissus, the smell is a bit similar to the smell of Tuberose although Tuberose smells more creamy and have a green note and Narcissus has a more fruity and more animalic scent, if the smell of Narcissus could have a color it would be yellow. The Narcissus gives a nice bite to this perfume.
To hold all these lovely fragrant flowers together there is added an Iris note, maybe with the use of Ionone a component of Iris that has a dry woody flowery fragrance. It gives a solid smell to these fragrant white flowers so their fragrance will melt with your skin and doesn't smell like you wear the scent of flowers but something that becomes a part of you and your body chemistry. The fragrance of Iris will lead you to the woody notes; a warm earthy smoky Vetiver together with Cedar and Patchouli to spice it up a bit, also an animalic note is added to prevent this perfume to become an innocent perfume.
Jardins de Bagatelle is a very well made elegant perfume, it surprise you with little unexpected notes and the notes are perfect balanced. I do love all the perfumes made by Guerlain and I do love this one as well, but it's not my favorite like Mitsouko, Shalimar or Samsara.
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
Apologize

Fragrant wishes to all readers of this blog
Saturday, November 25, 2006
Smell

Yesterday I was in a perfumery shop and had a real nice conversation with the lady of the shop. I asked her if I could smell some of the new fragrances and we start to talk about fragrances in general.
I told her that I think Chanel no5 is nice and that it was really new and special in the time it was made but that it's not one of my favorite. She said she was a real fan of Chanel no5 and that when she wears it people always say to her that she smells so nice. I told her that Chanel no19 is my favorite and that I like Coco Chanel as well.
O, she said, before I liked Coco Chanel as well until I went to a funeral of a good friend of mine, she said that the daughter of her friend was wearing Coco Chanel and since then the smell of this perfume reminds her of this sad day and that she can't wear it without being really sad.
That reminded me of a perfume I can't wear or smell without being sad, it's Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana I weared this perfume when our dog Jacko died. Since then I don't wear it anymore, I can recognize this perfume without any doubt when someone wears it. I still miss my warm and dear friend.

We started to talk about how difficult it seems to translate smell in words, I found out that when I ask someone to describe a perfume they look at me like I asked something really strange, they say something like that it's nice or that it's sweet or that it's fresh but they find it difficult to tell more about it.
A couple of days ago I visited my brother, my friend was there as well, my sister in law and I started to talk about a perfume. She used words like, it has a high tone or this perfume smells round etc. My friend raised her eyebrows and asked where the hell we were talking about. She said it was like we were talking a different language. We explained to her what we were talking about and after the explanation she understood a bit more of this special language.
I told the lady of the shop about this and she affirmed this, she told me she did a wine tasting course once and that it was difficult to describe the taste or smell. There are some kind of words used to describe some aromas, but she told me that some descriptions were not her descriptions, everyone has their own scent memories or referents, so the description by someone else could be from a whole different scent experience than yours.

We also made the connection to music, we both like music it seemed. Music can touch you in the same way a fragrance can, but somehow it's easier to describe music then to describe a fragrance. We can even find out what kind of notes the music is made of, try that with a perfume....Maybe we have to learn how to describe what we smell it's an important part of our live, strange that we have a difficulty to find the words for such an important thing.
Sunday, November 19, 2006
Blending perfume

Today I was thinking about the difference between a blend and a perfume. I still don't know the difference but I guess a blend is a simple mix of some aromatic materials, well maybe it doesn't need to be a simple mix but it isn't a perfume although you could call perfume a blend but that's not a common word used for a perfume(I think). You're still with me? It sounds a bit confusing.
I searched for the word "blend"(in verb form) in the free online dictionary and this is what it says:
*To combine or mix so that the constituent parts are indistinguishable from one another.
*To combine (varieties or grades) to obtain a mixture of a particular character, quality, or consistency.
*To form a uniform mixture.
*To become merged into one; unite.
*To create a harmonious effect or result.
Mmm you could say the same thing about perfume, so maybe you can use both words but I prefer to use the name perfume above a blend. A blend to me is a mix but not necessarily a perfume. To mix some aromatic materials doesn't make a perfume even when it smells good. You wear a perfume on your skin it becomes a part of you, perfume has something special it becomes personal. I think you can say that a perfume is a blend but not every blend is a perfume.
