Sunday, July 23, 2006

Gourmand fragrances

While working on the fragrance for my colleague with notes of kiwi, chocolate, vanilla etc I was thinking of gourmand notes used in fragrances.

An example of a typical gourmand fragrance is Angel by Thierry Mugler. This fragrance was released in 1994 and created by the perfumers Olivier Cresp and Yves de Chirin both perfumers from Quest. Thierry Mugler asked the perfumers to create a perfume that possesses the smell of a tender childhood memory at the fair, with notes of cotton candy, caramel, vanilla and chocolate.
The main notes of the fragrance are:
Bergamot, Jasmin, red currant, dewberry, honey, patchouli, vanilla, coumarine, chocolate and caramel.
For the sugary note of the cotton candy they used Maltol what makes an interesting combination with Helional an ozonic note resembling the electric ozonic smell around the bumping cars on the fair. For the jasmin note they used Hedione what has an aroma of jasmin and magnolia.
I like Angel really much but only on others, when I wear this fragrance it turn out to smell like burned sugar.

Another note used in some gourmand fragrances is almond milk. I'm not sure which note to use for that but a milky note could be obtained by Milk lactone and an almond note could be from Benzaldehyde.

Of course the vanilla is also real important for gourmand fragrances. There are all sorts of fruity notes like I used the Kiwi in the fragrance for my collegeua. The Aldehyde C14 gives a peach note and the Aldehyde C16 gives a strawberry note.

Other notes used in gourmands are Coffee, Tea or Green tea, Cumcumber, Coconut but also notes of wiskey or cognac. And of course the spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander etc.


The Scented Salamander said...

I have been testing the new Nina by Nina Ricci the last couple of days -- it is very gourmand and apparently, it's the first time that a caramel toffee note has been used in a perfume. I'll try to write a little review of it.

Jenny said...

I like to read your review about it, I don't understand why they call it Nina because there is already a Nina by Nina Ricci.