Sunday, July 29, 2007


Sometimes your first intuition is the best. I'm working for years on the same perfume, it's a perfume that I wanted to smell delicate, floral, smooth, gentle, soft and feminine. This perfume is inspired by the blossom of magnolia and I created it for my sister in law, who loves delicate flowery perfumes. It's not a soliflor perfume but contains a bouquet of many other white flowers, like freesia, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, Lilly of the valley, lilac and the leading part; magnolia. The top notes has citrus notes while the heart is floral and the base is woody sweet powdery. It's a floral fantasy perfume.

I created this perfume years ago for my sister in law and she loved it. But I was not yet satisfied, it needed more staying power, and I wanted the perfume to linger more. Now that I have a choice out of so many more perfume materials, and gained much more knowledge about perfumery, I finally can go on with this perfume and hope to finish it. In the mean time I created many, many variations of this perfume, but when I look back at the original creation, I see that this one was the best idea outof all. At the time that I created this perfume for the first time, I didn't know the things I do now, but when I look at the formula I wrote in that time, I can see based on the knowledge that I have now, that my intuition was right.

For example, I used some wintergreen oil, an oil that contains methyl saliclyate, I didn't know why I used it but thought it would be nice to use just a tiny bit of it in the formula. Now I know that it sweetens the top note of a perfume when you use just a little, so I was correct using wintergreen. In that time I didn't know what kind of aroma chemicals magnolia contains, now that I do know I can see that I used the right aroma chemicals, at least the ones that I had access to at that moment. Now I do have so much more choices of aroma chemicals, this way I could created a magnolia base, a base that I created separately from the perfume. I searched for gas chromatography analysis of magnolia on the web, and created a magnolia base the way I wanted my magnolia to smell like. One of the materials I used is Magnolan which has a typical magnolia, grapefruit scent, it smells a bit similar like Hedione but more fresh and more citrus like.

When I first created this perfume, I had a hard time to keep the perfume smell 'transparent' and give it fixation at the same time, instead of adding enough fixation, I only used a small amount of fixative materials. Now I know what kind of materials I can use to give enough fixation without making the perfume smell too heavy. Creativity and intuition is important in perfume making, but you need knowledge as well.


chayaruchama said...

Lieve Jenny-

What a fascinating retrospective.

Thank you for illuminating my path...
I'm fortunate to encounter so many teachers on my way [to only God knows where...!]

Jenny said...

Lieve Chaya,

Thank YOU for illuminating my path. It's a delight to read your comments every time. I'm thankful, more than you know, for your support and encouragement.

Dikke kus!

milanbijur said...

Hi Jenny,
I am Milan Bijur, a hobby flavourist from Mumbai, India. Could we be in touch so that we could exchange some notes for mutual benefit?
Thanks and Regards
Milan Bijur

Jenny said...

Hi Milan,

That would be very nice. I sent you a PM.

Octavian said...

the magnolia flower (head space) is based a lot on linalool and a key ingredient is an orange flower note (methyl anthranylate or dimethyl anthranilate).
it is also quite rosy (citronellol, geraniol).
the soft aspect could be obtained with some salycilates.
so: a very fresh, rosy and light lily of the valley, with a trace of orange flower.

Jenny said...

Hi Octavian,

Thanks again for your info. I agree Magnolia is based on Linalool, and rosy notes like Geraniol and Citronellol. There is an orange blossom note in it as well. I used orange blossom absolute to obtain this note. I also used lily of the valley notes like Mayol. Other important materials in Magnolia are Jasmolactone and Jasmone cis.

Anonymous said...

hey thank you very much, for you lovely post, I have been facing similar problems
yet I wonder what kind of fixation are you using??
thanks in advance

Jenny said...

I used different musks like Velvione and woody notes as a fixation.