Still exploring my new received perfume chemicals. I put them on a smellingstrip and close my eyes and try to smell every detail of it. To know the smell of the materials doesn't mean that you know how it will react in a perfume. That's the fun part of making perfume; it's a never ending story. It reminds me of the use of Aldehydes like in Chanel no 5, it was not a new product but it was used in a whole new way. The same it was with Hedione (methyl dihydro jasmonate) it wasn't a new material, it was known by every perfumer. The smell of Hedione on a smellingstrip is weak and vaguely like a jasmin tea, the use of it in a jasmin base is obvious but the way Edmond Routnitska used the Hedione in his Eau Savage by Dior; a herbal citrus composition was unique. Hedione is weak on a smellingstrip but has great potential in a perfume, it will make a perfume 'sing'. It's important to study perfumematerials on their own but also diluted and in combination with other materials.
The use of Hedione in Eau Savage made me think about my Fougere experiments, the last time it turned out to be too soapy. Lavender notes are easy turn out soapy, I put in some Hedione and less Lavender and it gives a wonderful result, I like it a lot. I tempered the Basil notes and used a wonderful green note, because I think a Fougere (Fern) needs to have a green scent, a Fern to me always smell green.
I'm still working on my Magnolia based perfume, I'm thrilled because I added notes that makes it linger real long, I put it on my skin in the morning and the next morning I still could smell it. It needs more perfection but I know I'm on the right way. I did some experiments with a chypre based perfume as well and it's wonderful I added fruity pineapple notes in it and found out that Cashmeran(musk note) turned out lovely with the patchouli, it made the patchouli notes softer.
I ordered a lot of materials from a German company and some essential oils and absolutes from Primavera, I can't wait to experiment with them.