Sunday, February 25, 2007

Santal de Mysore




Chaya who comment her often sent me some samples of wonderful perfumes and Santal de Mysore was one of them. Thank you Chaya! When I first smelled this perfume I was in love.

Serge Lutens (see photo left) launched this perfume in 2001. Serge lutens, served as the image creator of shiseido for 20 years, he released his first perfume for Shiseido in 1981: the now legendary Nombre Noir. He also launched his own "Serge Lutens" line of perfumes under the exclusive Le Palais Royale de Shiseido

This perfume is based on the scent of sandalwood, no surprise when you know its name, it has a warm, thick, creamy, woodsy fragrance. The sandalwood in this fragrance is a deep warm sandal sweetened with a caramel note that could be coming from Fenugreek although it's not listed in the ingredients. The top is sweet but has also spicy notes like the note of Cumin and an almost curry like note. This perfume is so soft and warm, not in a timid way but a full warm soft thick perfume, it's like the feeling of soft velvet. It isn't linear though because of the spices that are used in this fragrance. The fragrance plays a game on your skin, one time it will give you a warm caramel note and another time a sandal note, a spicy note or even a green note comes forwarded once in a while.

It's interesting to know that sandal wood is a very precious material. Realizing its value, the Sultan of Mysore(India) declared it a royal tree in 1792. No individual may own a sandalwood tree. Even if the tree grows on private land it is owned by the government. However, an individual is entitled to receive seventy five percent of its value as a bonus for growing and protecting the trees. It is against the law in India to cut down a sandalwood tree until it has reached a mature age of at least 30 years old. The best sandal wood oil is produced from trees that have matured and are in the age group of 50-60 years, yet because of such high demands sandalwood has become an endangered species.

Christopher Sheldrake (here on the photo together with Jacques Polge, Sheldrake is the one on the left) created this perfume for Serge Lutens. Christopher Sheldrake originally from Australia is a perfumer for more than 30 years and created almost every perfume for Serge Lutens. He also created Feminitè du Bois for Shiseido a perfume that I really adore, I will talk about this one later. Sheldrake is now the deputy perfumer at Chanel, where he works with Jacques Polge, the head perfumer of the house.

15 comments:

niney said...

Thanks for the history on Serge Lutens.I found out by accident, when trying to order one of his perfumes that he was somehow affliated with Shiseido.It's great to be educated on perfumers and perfume chemistry.Great Blog!!

Jenny said...

Hi Niney, so nice to hear you like the blog. Which perfume are you going to order from Serge Lutens?

chaya ruchama said...

Hello, pretty lady...

I'm so glad you fell in love with this-
I had a sneaky feeling you would.

This scent really expresses my nature in a way no other does.
I am so grateful to be able to wear something that tells volumes about me without having to murmur a word.

Dikke kus !

Jenny said...

Dear Chaya,
You are a doll for sending me these samples. I adore Santal de Mysore, how did you know? So when I smell Santal de Mysore I smell you....
A woman that is warm but not timid, she is soft but not weak, she is sweet but also spicy.
Is this describing you Chaya?

Dikke kus

Anonymous said...

Hello,

I have ben reading your blog for about a month now....learning lots of stuff since I have just begun to take my 'perfuming' more seriously & am now working on a few solid perfume formulations of my own.

I wonder....have you have ever heard of Black Phoenix Alchemy Labs in the USA?...(I live in US)....(Google them for website)....they have THE most exotic blends of essential oils for sale & I use them as inspiration.....check them out & tell me what you think.

Nice to meet you & to chat with you hopefully.

Inspired,

Ellen

chaya ruchama said...

Lieve Jenny-

If you continue this sweet banter, I might be forced to leave Bernhard [after 24 years !] and marry you instead...

I'd like to delude myself that some of those characteristics describe me.

I'm not dull-
Even my detractors would agree, lol !

It's a pleasure to be able to share with a friend who appreciates.

Dikke kus.

Jenny said...

Hi Ellen,

It's nice to hear form you and that you even learn someting from this blog. You know that I have a Yahoo group for (hobby)perfumers?

I tried to make solid perfumes but without any succes I found the smell too much like beeswax I have to find out what other materials could be used.

Yes I've heard about Black Phoenix Alchemy Labs and have seen their site which looks beautiful, but I never smelled one of their perfumes.

Jenny said...

Lieve Chaya,

Who said you were dull?

I can't help it but will always think about you when I smell this fragrance. Oh isn't that romantic? LOL hahahaha

Anonymous said...

Hi Jenny,

I am going to make a solid scent for the first time this weekend & will tell you how it smells to me....hope it's good....I want to try & market them when i move to my new home In New Mexico.
If you want a suggestion of a scent to smell from Black Phoenix....one of my fav's...'Snake Oil'....sexy!!

How do I get to your yahoo Group?

Regards,

Ellen *_*

Jenny said...

Hi Ellen,
Thanks for the tip I will remind Snake oil it sounds exciting. Let me know how your experiment with the solid perfume went.
Here is the link to my Yahoo group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/perfumemaking/
You can also find the link on this blog, it's right under my profile.

Ellen said...

Thanks Jenny!....will check out the Yahoo Group...

Happy Mixin'

Ellen

Andy said...

Dear Jenny
I have to admit: I never sniffed Santal de Mysore, but I must. What a pity that this precious perfumery material is becoming so rare in good quality. I am expecting a sample from India these days, it was promised by a friend of a friend who is very reliable. Kind of a family thing as the friend of the friend is related to folks distilling... I am thrilled because I has been a while since I was in the position of ordering truly good sandalwood. The last time it was from edenbotanicals. But I think they don't sell it anymore.
Sending you fragrant wishes

Jenny said...

Dear Andy,
Yes it is such a pity that this material is becoming rare, I'm glad I still have a little bit left. Did you ever tried Vanuatu Sandalwood? I never tried it yet, but we were discussing Sandalwood substitutes at the group and although it's not the same it has some simularities as I've heard.

Fragrant wishes to you too Andy.

Dimitris said...

http://www.labdanum.gr labdanum from Cistus Creticus – Sises Rethimno Crete
My name is Niktaris Dimitris.
I'm from Sises Rethimno Crete Greece.
Sises is a village in northern Crete.
SISES IS
"A very small amount of ladanum is still gathered in this traditional way in a small area surrounding a village in northern Crete."
My village labdanum produces from cistus creticus only in all the world with traditional way.
I have made this site :
http://www.labdanum.gr
in English
http://www.labanum.gr
in Greek
I have collected information for labdanum or ladanum (Cistus creticus).
I will be cheerful if we have a contact.
My e-mail : ladanum@gmail.com

Niktaris Dimitris
Thank you.

Jenny said...

Hi Niktaris,
That is wonderful information you wrote, I need more time to read all of it. But what I read so far was very interesting. I will write you a personal email.